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I learned that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then lightly combine with the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a container. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more sea salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.